How to Put a Glock Switch On: A Step-by-Step Guide for the Serious Shooter

Installing a selector switch on your Glock isn’t about backyard gunsmithing; it’s a precise mechanical procedure that requires the right tools, the right parts, and a methodical approach. The most common mistake I see is shooters trying to force-fit a cheap, out-of-spec switch onto a perfectly good frame, which leads to malfunctions and a compromised firearm. This guide walks you through the professional process, from selecting a quality switch to final function testing.

Essential Tools and Parts You’ll Need

Before you touch your pistol, gather everything. You’ll need a quality armorers punch set, specifically a 3/32″ punch for the trigger pin. A nylon or brass hammer is non-negotiable to avoid marring the frame. A small flathead screwdriver or a dedicated Glock tool helps with the slide lock spring. Most importantly, you need a switch engineered to Glock’s specifications. The aftermarket is flooded with poorly-milled aluminum junk. At Glockpistolswitch, we source and test every unit; our Glock Auto Switch category features models like the G19 Gen3-specific switch, machined from 4140 steel to ensure a perfect fit without frame modification. Don’t forget a new trigger pin, as the factory one is a staked roll pin not meant for repeated removal.

Step 1: Safe Field Strip and Lower Disassembly

Clear the firearm, drop the magazine, and lock the slide to the rear to visually and physically confirm the chamber is empty. Release the slide and pull the trigger to de-energize the striker. Perform a standard field strip. Now, with the slide off, you’re working on the lower. Use your punch and hammer to drive out the trigger pin from right to left. This pin retains the trigger mechanism housing (the plastic block with the ejector), the trigger assembly, and the slide lock. Once the pin is out, you can carefully lift out the trigger mechanism housing. The slide lock and its spring will also be free; note their orientation. This exposes the trigger bar and cruciform, which is the engagement surface the new switch will interact with.

Step 2: Installing the Selector Switch Itself

This is the critical phase. Take your selector switch—for example, our G17 Gen4 Switch—and align it with the pin holes in the frame. The selector lever should sit comfortably in the trigger housing slot. The switch must sit flush against the frame’s interior wall; if it’s protruding or binding, the tolerances are wrong. Do not force it. A proper switch will drop in or require only gentle pressure. Once seated, re-insert the trigger mechanism housing. It should mesh cleanly with the selector’s geometry. The selector should rotate smoothly between its positions (typically safe, semi, auto) without the housing installed. Any grit or grinding means the part is out of spec.

Step 3: Reassembly and Pin Reinstallation

With the switch and trigger housing in place, you must get the slide lock and its spring back in. This is the trickiest part of reassembly. The leg of the slide lock spring must sit under the front lip of the trigger pin channel. Using your punch to hold tension on the spring leg while you align all the components—the slide lock, the trigger housing, the switch, and the frame holes—is the professional method. Once everything is aligned, drive the new trigger pin through from left to right. It should slide in with firm pressure from the punch. If you meet severe resistance, stop. The components are misaligned, likely the slide lock spring. Forcing it will damage the polymer frame.

Step 4: Function Testing and Safety Verification

Do not reinstall the slide yet. Perform a full function check on the lower. The trigger should reset crisply in the semi-auto position. The selector should click positively into each detent. Move it to the “safe” position; the trigger should be locked and inoperable. Cycle the selector to the auto position and dry fire while holding the trigger back; the cruciform should reset as designed. Only after the lower checks out, reinstall the slide. Rack the slide and perform the function check again with the slide on, ensuring the firing pin safety plunger is being depressed. Finally, with the firearm pointed in a safe direction, test fire with a single round first, then a short 2-3 round burst to confirm cyclic operation. A reliable switch, like those in our full catalog, will run without issue when installed correctly.

Frequently Asked Questions

How to put glock switch on?

You need to fully disassemble the Glock’s lower receiver, driving out the trigger pin to remove the trigger mechanism housing. Install the selector switch into the frame, ensuring it sits flush, then reassemble the housing and slide lock spring before re-inserting the trigger pin. A full function check is mandatory before live fire. Using a precision-milled switch from Glockpistolswitch eliminates fitment issues.

How to install glock switch on glock 19?

The process is identical to other Gen3 models. For a Glock 19 Gen3, use a switch specifically machined for that frame size and generation. After removing the slide and trigger pin, the switch installs into the left side of the frame. Pay close attention to the slide lock spring during reassembly, as it’s the most common point of failure for DIY installs.

How to put switch on glock 17?

Installing on a Glock 17 follows the standard procedure. Ensure you have the correct switch for your generation (Gen3, Gen4, etc.). The larger frame size of the G17 can sometimes make the slide lock spring easier to manage during reassembly. Always use a new, solid trigger pin instead of the factory roll pin for a secure fit.

If you’re ready to upgrade your platform with a component built to last, Browse our glock switches collection. We provide the tools and the quality parts to get the job done right the first time.

Last updated: March 27, 2026